Glamor Shot!

I was out at the hangar tonight, working on Brake master cylinders and the Cleveland calipers. I put the fuselage out of the hangar in the grass so I could have more room to work. Well the Sun set was nice and I thought I would take a Glamour picture.

As she sits here, she has all new control cables installed with all new Pulleys. Also rebuild control column and Dual brake / rudder pedals.

Working on Floorboards and Brake lines now, next will be 1/2″ fuel lines and selector.

Pitted races

Well, this weekend I wanted to get the tailwheel built up and mounted on the airframe so I can roll the darn thing around. Well as I gathered all the pieces together and started a final inspection, I noticed the Scott 3200 wheel bearings were pitted.

Next comes the research to replace them. The Bearings are Timken A4050’s with a race A4138. Looking at the regular places like Univair, Aircraft Spruce and others, these bearings are very costly considering their size. To get the Bearings, races and dust covers is over $270.

If you look up the timken A4050 on its own, you can find the bearing for MUCH less, like $40 for two bearing and race sets!

So now you are asking why? Why are the SAME bearings 1o times more expensive from the Aviation parts houses? Well I found an interesting post on this McFarlane site stating that the Aviation grade of the A4050 actually has a part number A4050-20629.
https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/A4050/

You can see that the A4050-20629 has the FAA/PMA stamp and appears to be a black roller cage.

Tailwheel, WRONG

So I started re-building the Scott 3200 Tailwheel, refinishing the spring and such. I have the pictures of when I took the tailwheel apart and I was going to reinstall the same way until I read something in the 3200 manual that made me question something.

My original setup had 4 grade 5 bolts holding the leaf spring to the fuselage, but the 3200 manual mentioned two U-bolts. I went to the Univair site and verified the same.

So when you re-install your tailwheel ensure you have the U-bolts.

Hot times…Welding

This fuselage had two “Butt welds” which are NOT approved by 43.13 so Brent Henneman helped me get those sleeved.

We ground done the butt welds smooth, then used the 30 degree slice method to fix these properly.

I’m not real happy with having these sleeves here on the bottom as it will make the cover material look bad, so I may make some aluminum flashings to make the cover look better.

Cables and more

Well today I worked on prep work for installing control cables.

Inspected the Aileron cables (I have two sets) and both were defective. One was showing broken strands near the ball swage. So I ordered new ones.

Cleaned and inspected Rudder cables and they passed. I will be using CRC SP350 to lubricate and protect them as it is MIL-C-16173 approved.

Also (dry fit) installed the top birdcage with the use of clecos. It’s nice to see things going on!

Control Column rebuild

OK, Rule #1, MARK ALL PARTS as you remove them! I failed to do that, as I assumed, they were all the same.

Turns out the Pulleys where the aileron cable attaches are different, however there are no markings on the pulleys themselves.

I did pull the Pulleys off, remove the control yoke bushings and universals. The Pulleys were sandblasted, primed and painted. The bushings were cleaned and the universals were inspected and cleaned.

I did order some new pulleys (Phenolic ones) as they are cheap and easy to change now.

I’m expecting the Control Coumn to come back from powder coating this week and I plan to re-assemble and install the control column this week end.

Next will be the Rudder pedal assymembly.

Below are some pics and the chart of parts for the Control Column